disassembly complete (2024)

brian_p_sherwood

Well, it's apart. The threaded bushing that screws into the
cross-slide [which looks to be homemade, drunken threads, tool marks
and all], the crank and the graduated collar are salvagable although
I'll probably make new ones just because the rust pitting that's been
wire-brushed off is ugly.

However, I did find a part not listed anywhere in my book [big
surprise--this assembly is full of them but I'm used to that being
as my lathe is pre-fire]. It's a flanged bushing, 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD by
.885 overall length. The flange on the end is the same OD as the
thrust bearing and it installs flange-towards-thrust-bearing...or
should I say flange-towards-where-the-bearing-should-be--I'm assuming
there's supposed to be a thrust bearing at both ends of the fat part
of the leadscrew.

The bushing [which also looks homemade] goes over the leadscrew and
through the graduated collar. It was cross-pinned to the leadscrew.
The leadscrew's trashed anyway...the threads are 1/2-10 Acme at each
end and 60-degree "V" in the middle with a sharp edge on the "V".

My guess is at one time leadscrews were 3/8 OD on the crank end and
later ones were 1/2 OD and this is a conversion kit from small dials
or a Frankenstein setup with possibly a collar from some other
size or brand [maybe a Heavy 10 collar?]--the number stamping is a
different size and font than the other 3 SB collars I have.

Oh well, at least the carriage casting is good, no wasp-waisting on
the ways I can tell...and I got it for a price that I don't mind too
much that the rest of the assembly's junk.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...> wrote:

Thank you. I didn't miss anything a bath in penetrating oil won't
cure I guess.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Webb Wyman" <lynnw@e...> wrote:

Hi Lurch,

I didn't see any mention of removing the ball crank handle. Or

are

you

trying to remove the cross feed screw as an assembly. If you are

trying to

remove it as an assembly, the bushing is right-hand threaded into

the

saddle casting.

The way I have removed them is to take the saddle, with the cross

feed

screw, off the lathe and clamp the bushing in a well padded vise

with the

screw and saddle pointing straight up (I use lead but leather

works

too) and

unscrew the saddle from the bushing.

Then the cross feed screw assembly can be disassembled by

unscrewing

the

special nut on the end that retains the ball crank handle. This

requires a

screwdriver like tool that has a notch cut in the center to clear

the

threaded hub of the cross feed screw. The ball crank handle can

then be

removed by gently tapping it off. There is a 1/8" diameter pin

used

as a

key to prevent the handle from slipping on the shaft. This pin

may

fall out

as you remove the handle.

The graduated collar is removed next. Loosen the set screw (small

dial) or

the thumb screw (large dial) and slide the dial off. Under the

screw, there

is a small brass disk called a "shoe" that prevents the screw from

marring

the shaft. These fall out and can get lost if you are not

careful.

All that is left is the bushing and the cross feed screw and they

slide

apart from this point.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!
- Blue Chips -
Webb

You did mention that you removed the set screw (more correctly,

the

little

screw that covers an oil port). If you don't, you will damage the

threads.

brian_p_sherwood

So now the only question remaining is whether I can replace the
leadscrew and nut with OEM for less than $60...the cost of a length of
precision lefty Acme rod and a nut from McMaster-Carr. I figure I
could just bore the splined part of the old leadscrew to a loose
press-fit on the Acme rod...http://pages.cthome.net/errol.groff/
has an article on doing this because a leadscrew and nut were quoted
from SBL at about $1200 he says...has anyone here on the list tried
this?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...> wrote:

Well, it's apart. The threaded bushing that screws into the
cross-slide [which looks to be homemade, drunken threads, tool marks
and all], the crank and the graduated collar are salvagable although
I'll probably make new ones just because the rust pitting that's

been

wire-brushed off is ugly.

However, I did find a part not listed anywhere in my book [big
surprise--this assembly is full of them but I'm used to that being
as my lathe is pre-fire]. It's a flanged bushing, 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD

by

.885 overall length. The flange on the end is the same OD as the
thrust bearing and it installs flange-towards-thrust-bearing...or
should I say flange-towards-where-the-bearing-should-be--I'm

assuming

there's supposed to be a thrust bearing at both ends of the fat part
of the leadscrew.

The bushing [which also looks homemade] goes over the leadscrew and
through the graduated collar. It was cross-pinned to the leadscrew.

The leadscrew's trashed anyway...the threads are 1/2-10 Acme at each
end and 60-degree "V" in the middle with a sharp edge on the "V".

My guess is at one time leadscrews were 3/8 OD on the crank end and
later ones were 1/2 OD and this is a conversion kit from small dials
or a Frankenstein setup with possibly a collar from some other
size or brand [maybe a Heavy 10 collar?]--the number stamping is a
different size and font than the other 3 SB collars I have.

Oh well, at least the carriage casting is good, no wasp-waisting on
the ways I can tell...and I got it for a price that I don't mind too
much that the rest of the assembly's junk.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...> wrote:

Thank you. I didn't miss anything a bath in penetrating oil won't
cure I guess.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Webb Wyman" <lynnw@e...> wrote:

Hi Lurch,

I didn't see any mention of removing the ball crank handle. Or

are

you

trying to remove the cross feed screw as an assembly. If you

are

trying to

remove it as an assembly, the bushing is right-hand threaded

into

the

saddle casting.

The way I have removed them is to take the saddle, with the

cross

feed

screw, off the lathe and clamp the bushing in a well padded vise

with the

screw and saddle pointing straight up (I use lead but leather

works

too) and

unscrew the saddle from the bushing.

Then the cross feed screw assembly can be disassembled by

unscrewing

the

special nut on the end that retains the ball crank handle. This

requires a

screwdriver like tool that has a notch cut in the center to

clear

the

threaded hub of the cross feed screw. The ball crank handle can

then be

removed by gently tapping it off. There is a 1/8" diameter pin

used

as a

key to prevent the handle from slipping on the shaft. This pin

may

fall out

as you remove the handle.

The graduated collar is removed next. Loosen the set screw

(small

dial) or

the thumb screw (large dial) and slide the dial off. Under the

screw, there

is a small brass disk called a "shoe" that prevents the screw

from

marring

the shaft. These fall out and can get lost if you are not

careful.

All that is left is the bushing and the cross feed screw and

they

slide

apart from this point.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!
- Blue Chips -
Webb

You did mention that you removed the set screw (more correctly,

the

little

screw that covers an oil port). If you don't, you will damage

the

threads.

Yasmiin Davis

Its really a matter of accuracy. The Mackmaster Carr stuff
isn't ground and accurate to tenths over a foot. There are
vendors that sell lead screws and I believe their price
would be around 300 but you would have to machine it to fit
your lathe.

Yasmiin

brian_p_sherwood

Stan Stocker

MSC has some acme threaded rod specified for 2 thou per foot. Still not
perfect, probably fine for most cross slide or compound uses, maybe OK
for a leadscrew, unless you use the lathe to make quite long threaded
sections that require really tight specs.

Stan

brian_p_sherwood wrote:

j.w.early@worldnet.att.net

Now we are getting picky again. The acme threaded rod
that McMaster, Enco, J&L, MSC and others have is as good
as you are going to find anywhere and probably better
than you could cut yourself. Everybody gets to concerned
ablut dial graduations and how accurate they are when
they are "FOR REFERENCE USE ONLY". That is why GOD made
micrometers and calipers to measure what you are doing.

We recently here at the shop rebuilt two milling machine
tables on all three axis with McMaster supplied threaded
rod and they work about 500% better than the old worn
out ones that were in the machines. The variation in
pitch on these threaded rods is way less than half the
tolerence between the rod and nut anyway.
JWE

Webb Wyman

Hi there,

I forgot about the large dials using the ball thrust bearings (like the
Heavy Ten's). I apologize if my instructions were confusing. They would
have been correct for the small dial type.

I concur with the opinion that the commercially available Acme screw stock
is good enough for your application. Considering all the variables in
machining (clearance between nut and screw, spring in the work, etc.) they
will be accurate enough.

I would check on Plaza's screw stock. He is the only one I know of that has
7/16" x 10 t.p.i. Acme screw stock. Did someone mention that he has
replacement nuts too?

Anyway, Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress.
- Blue Chips -
Webb

Yes, he has replacement nuts. I did purchase one. I believe the price was
$35. As stated before, specify if your lathe has a taper attachment (or
possiblity that the saddle is tapper attachment ready) or not. There is a
difference in the two. I figure Webb alrady knows this, but others
following this thread might not. He also, has other products available,
like a treaded end sleeve for the collet closers. I need to get one myself.
Tom

Webb Wyman <lynnw@...> on 01/17/2002 10:50:28 AM

Please respond to southbendlathe@...

To: Yahoo's South Bend Lathe Group <southbendlathe@...>
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: disassembly complete

Hi there,

I forgot about the large dials using the ball thrust bearings (like the
Heavy Ten's). I apologize if my instructions were confusing. They would
have been correct for the small dial type.

I concur with the opinion that the commercially available Acme screw stock
is good enough for your application. Considering all the variables in
machining (clearance between nut and screw, spring in the work, etc.) they
will be accurate enough.

I would check on Plaza's screw stock. He is the only one I know of that
has
7/16" x 10 t.p.i. Acme screw stock. Did someone mention that he has
replacement nuts too?

Anyway, Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress.
- Blue Chips -
Webb

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
southbendlathe-unsubscribe@...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

brian_p_sherwood

My neighbor across the street brazes and solders for a living and
owes me a favor so that'c covered.

Just to complicate matters further, talk about TOO MANY choices,
while I'm searching leadscrew stock I found a deal on a new OEM SBL
leadscrew, nut, graduated collar, bushing, bearings, the whole shot
except the crankhandle itself, all new-in-box for $300.

So I sent that guy a check..AND ordered the leadscrew stock and nut.

That way if I screw it up I'm covered, and if I don't screw it up I
KNOW I can get my money back out of the OEM parts. A couple weeks'
interest on $300 at savings-account rate is awful cheap insurance. By
the time this is done I'll be able to spend a few bucks on a headstock
and bed...and have a complete second lathe to trade in on a
bridgeport!

makin' chips...I make the chips, my boss uses the leftover scrap
<chuckle>

--- In southbendlathe@y..., Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

Brian,
You might call Plaza Machinery. He sells a section of

crossslide

leadscrew for I think $25. He aslo reconditions(ie sleeves or

replaces the

threads for a cost). You might also look at the nut. They should

cost $35.

Remember the nuts are different depending on if you have a taper

attachment

or not. The previous dimensions on the bearing are correct .250 vs.

.281. I

bought some INA bearings and ground them down on a surface grinder.

You

could modify the housing itself. It would need to be shortened at

the

threaded end and the bearing recess on the other end would have to

be

deepend. There is a collar as you described on my 10K. (for some

reason I

was think lead screw on your fisrt post). If you check back a few

weeks

someone mentioned that some of these collars are pinned (both cross
leadscrews I have are), some are not. There seems to be some

variation on

pin location between the two I have. Talking to Plaza Machinery

before, a

press fit work good. I would put in some loctite too. .001 press

should be

fine. You could soft soilder or silver soilder it also. If soft

soildering

there should be .001 clearance. Not more than that though. The trick

with

soft soilder is to flux or apply the soilder to both parts before
assemble(I'm blanking on the correct term). Then assemble. I usually

heat

up the bigger part during assembly, and feed is more soidler till

the joint

fills up. Hope this is clear.
Tom

brian_p_sherwood

"Tinning" is the process of coating the workpiece with solder before
assembly. Also, I would use a rosin flux rather than acid flux or
"No-Korode" paste...the "No-Korode" paste is actually zinc
chloride-based, which any leftovers draw water from the air and break
down into hydrochloric acid and whatever else.

Does Plaza machinery have a website?
Thanks
Brian

--- In southbendlathe@y..., Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

Brian,
You might call Plaza Machinery. He sells a section of

crossslide

leadscrew for I think $25. He aslo reconditions(ie sleeves or

replaces the

threads for a cost). You might also look at the nut. They should

cost $35.

Remember the nuts are different depending on if you have a taper

attachment

or not. The previous dimensions on the bearing are correct .250

vs.

.281. I

bought some INA bearings and ground them down on a surface

grinder.

You

could modify the housing itself. It would need to be shortened at

the

threaded end and the bearing recess on the other end would have to

be

deepend. There is a collar as you described on my 10K. (for some

reason I

was think lead screw on your fisrt post). If you check back a few

weeks

someone mentioned that some of these collars are pinned (both

cross

leadscrews I have are), some are not. There seems to be some

variation on

pin location between the two I have. Talking to Plaza Machinery

before, a

press fit work good. I would put in some loctite too. .001 press

should be

fine. You could soft soilder or silver soilder it also. If soft

soildering

there should be .001 clearance. Not more than that though. The

trick

with

soft soilder is to flux or apply the soilder to both parts before
assemble(I'm blanking on the correct term). Then assemble. I

usually

heat

up the bigger part during assembly, and feed is more soidler till

the joint

fills up. Hope this is clear.
Tom

Brian,
That is the term I was looking for. I don't think Plaza has a website.
The ph# is 802-234-9673. I don't think he does credit cards, I believe I've
always had to pay be MO. The nut was $37.50.

brian_p_sherwood <lurch@...> on 01/17/2002 11:29:43 AM

Please respond to southbendlathe@...

To: southbendlathe@...
cc:
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: disassembly complete

"Tinning" is the process of coating the workpiece with solder before
assembly. Also, I would use a rosin flux rather than acid flux or
"No-Korode" paste...the "No-Korode" paste is actually zinc
chloride-based, which any leftovers draw water from the air and break
down into hydrochloric acid and whatever else.

Does Plaza machinery have a website?
Thanks
Brian

--- In southbendlathe@y..., Thomas.G.Brandl@c... wrote:

Brian,
You might call Plaza Machinery. He sells a section of

crossslide

leadscrew for I think $25. He aslo reconditions(ie sleeves or

replaces the

threads for a cost). You might also look at the nut. They should

cost $35.

Remember the nuts are different depending on if you have a taper

attachment

or not. The previous dimensions on the bearing are correct .250

vs.

.281. I

bought some INA bearings and ground them down on a surface

grinder.

You

could modify the housing itself. It would need to be shortened at

the

threaded end and the bearing recess on the other end would have to

be

deepend. There is a collar as you described on my 10K. (for some

reason I

was think lead screw on your fisrt post). If you check back a few

weeks

someone mentioned that some of these collars are pinned (both

cross

leadscrews I have are), some are not. There seems to be some

variation on

pin location between the two I have. Talking to Plaza Machinery

before, a

press fit work good. I would put in some loctite too. .001 press

should be

fine. You could soft soilder or silver soilder it also. If soft

soildering

there should be .001 clearance. Not more than that though. The

trick

with

soft soilder is to flux or apply the soilder to both parts before
assemble(I'm blanking on the correct term). Then assemble. I

usually

heat

up the bigger part during assembly, and feed is more soidler till

the joint

fills up. Hope this is clear.
Tom

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
southbendlathe-unsubscribe@...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Stan Stocker

Actually I agree with you. I was only mentioning that a tighter
tolerance was available. You will surely have a thou or more free space
in a standard nut/threaded rod setup. Given the import lathes tendency
to use metric threads and imperial collars, the error introduced will be
far less than the error you work around if you have an import lathe. I
know, this is the SB group, and I have 2, but plenty of folks (including
me) have an import lathe as well.

You should be able to dial in a 15 thou cut and reduce diameter by 30
thou to better than a thou. 9 thou or 2 thou per foot error isn't going
to matter in this application. Trying to hit final spec by dial if
you're turning a one inch shoulder on the end of a 8 inch workpiece just
isn't reasonable in most cases anyway, although the better the screw the
better your odds of not missing by a mile :-)

A 9 thou per foot error on a leadscrew could pose a problem if you were
single pointing 2 inches of 40TPI for use in a micrometer adjustment
mechanism, although in reality the odds of hitting to better than a thou
over 2 inches seems unlikely in a home shop, merely due to the expansion
of the stock created by the heat of cutting. At least for those of us
without flood cooling. The lead screw will only be at the manufacturers
accuracy at 68 degrees, or whatever temperature precision lead screws
for high end lathes are specified to be used at, as the leadscrew will
expand or contract a bit as ambient temperature moves around anyway.
The half nut will average out the miniscule thread to thread variations
from oil/dust/manufacturing, but a progressive gradual error in pitch
would be replicated in the final work.

As you say however, for the vast majority of work it just doesn't
matter. If you replace a badly worn screw with a reasonably decent new
one, the results are almost sure to be better than what you had before.

Stan

j.w.early@... wrote:

Brian,
If it helps you any, take a look in both the files and photos
sections. There are folders there containing drawings an pictures of
the crossfeed bushing and graduated collar I made for my 10K. My
lathe was originally equipped with the large dials, but I made mine
even larger. There is also a text file that explains the whys and all
of what I did. Feel free to contact me if you need more info.

Respectfully,
Raymond Shea
Shirley, MA

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...> wrote:

Well, it's apart. The threaded bushing that screws into the
cross-slide [which looks to be homemade, drunken threads, tool

marks

and all], the crank and the graduated collar are salvagable

although

I'll probably make new ones just because the rust pitting that's

been

wire-brushed off is ugly.

However, I did find a part not listed anywhere in my book [big
surprise--this assembly is full of them but I'm used to that being
as my lathe is pre-fire]. It's a flanged bushing, 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD

by

.885 overall length. The flange on the end is the same OD as the
thrust bearing and it installs flange-towards-thrust-bearing...or
should I say flange-towards-where-the-bearing-should-be--I'm

assuming

there's supposed to be a thrust bearing at both ends of the fat

part

of the leadscrew.

The bushing [which also looks homemade] goes over the leadscrew and
through the graduated collar. It was cross-pinned to the

leadscrew.

The leadscrew's trashed anyway...the threads are 1/2-10 Acme at

each

end and 60-degree "V" in the middle with a sharp edge on the "V".

My guess is at one time leadscrews were 3/8 OD on the crank end and
later ones were 1/2 OD and this is a conversion kit from small

dials

or a Frankenstein setup with possibly a collar from some other
size or brand [maybe a Heavy 10 collar?]--the number stamping is a
different size and font than the other 3 SB collars I have.

Oh well, at least the carriage casting is good, no wasp-waisting on
the ways I can tell...and I got it for a price that I don't mind

too

much that the rest of the assembly's junk.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...> wrote:

Thank you. I didn't miss anything a bath in penetrating oil

won't

cure I guess.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Webb Wyman" <lynnw@e...> wrote:

Hi Lurch,

I didn't see any mention of removing the ball crank handle. Or

are

you

trying to remove the cross feed screw as an assembly. If you

are

trying to

remove it as an assembly, the bushing is right-hand threaded

into

the

saddle casting.

The way I have removed them is to take the saddle, with the

cross

feed

screw, off the lathe and clamp the bushing in a well padded

vise

with the

screw and saddle pointing straight up (I use lead but leather

works

too) and

unscrew the saddle from the bushing.

Then the cross feed screw assembly can be disassembled by

unscrewing

the

special nut on the end that retains the ball crank handle.

This

requires a

screwdriver like tool that has a notch cut in the center to

clear

the

threaded hub of the cross feed screw. The ball crank handle

can

then be

removed by gently tapping it off. There is a 1/8" diameter pin

used

as a

key to prevent the handle from slipping on the shaft. This pin

may

fall out

as you remove the handle.

The graduated collar is removed next. Loosen the set screw

(small

dial) or

the thumb screw (large dial) and slide the dial off. Under the

screw, there

is a small brass disk called a "shoe" that prevents the screw

from

marring

the shaft. These fall out and can get lost if you are not

careful.

All that is left is the bushing and the cross feed screw and

they

slide

apart from this point.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!
- Blue Chips -
Webb

You did mention that you removed the set screw (more correctly,

the

little

screw that covers an oil port). If you don't, you will damage

the

threads.

catboat15@aol.com

brian_p_sherwood

Thank you. <;-)

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "rays0324" <rays0324@y...> wrote:

Brian,
If it helps you any, take a look in both the files and photos
sections. There are folders there containing drawings an pictures of
the crossfeed bushing and graduated collar I made for my 10K. My
lathe was originally equipped with the large dials, but I made mine
even larger. There is also a text file that explains the whys and

all

of what I did. Feel free to contact me if you need more info.

Respectfully,
Raymond Shea
Shirley, MA

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...> wrote:

Well, it's apart. The threaded bushing that screws into the
cross-slide [which looks to be homemade, drunken threads, tool

marks

and all], the crank and the graduated collar are salvagable

although

I'll probably make new ones just because the rust pitting that's

been

wire-brushed off is ugly.

However, I did find a part not listed anywhere in my book [big
surprise--this assembly is full of them but I'm used to that being
as my lathe is pre-fire]. It's a flanged bushing, 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD

by

.885 overall length. The flange on the end is the same OD as the
thrust bearing and it installs flange-towards-thrust-bearing...or
should I say flange-towards-where-the-bearing-should-be--I'm

assuming

there's supposed to be a thrust bearing at both ends of the fat

part

of the leadscrew.

The bushing [which also looks homemade] goes over the leadscrew

and

through the graduated collar. It was cross-pinned to the

leadscrew.

The leadscrew's trashed anyway...the threads are 1/2-10 Acme at

each

end and 60-degree "V" in the middle with a sharp edge on the "V".

My guess is at one time leadscrews were 3/8 OD on the crank end

and

later ones were 1/2 OD and this is a conversion kit from small

dials

or a Frankenstein setup with possibly a collar from some other
size or brand [maybe a Heavy 10 collar?]--the number stamping is a
different size and font than the other 3 SB collars I have.

Oh well, at least the carriage casting is good, no wasp-waisting

on

the ways I can tell...and I got it for a price that I don't mind

too

much that the rest of the assembly's junk.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...> wrote:

Thank you. I didn't miss anything a bath in penetrating oil

won't

cure I guess.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Webb Wyman" <lynnw@e...> wrote:

Hi Lurch,

I didn't see any mention of removing the ball crank handle.

Or

are

you

trying to remove the cross feed screw as an assembly. If you

are

trying to

remove it as an assembly, the bushing is right-hand threaded

into

the

saddle casting.

The way I have removed them is to take the saddle, with the

cross

feed

screw, off the lathe and clamp the bushing in a well padded

vise

with the

screw and saddle pointing straight up (I use lead but leather

works

too) and

unscrew the saddle from the bushing.

Then the cross feed screw assembly can be disassembled by

unscrewing

the

special nut on the end that retains the ball crank handle.

This

requires a

screwdriver like tool that has a notch cut in the center to

clear

the

threaded hub of the cross feed screw. The ball crank handle

can

then be

removed by gently tapping it off. There is a 1/8" diameter

pin

used

as a

key to prevent the handle from slipping on the shaft. This

pin

may

fall out

as you remove the handle.

The graduated collar is removed next. Loosen the set screw

(small

dial) or

the thumb screw (large dial) and slide the dial off. Under

the

screw, there

is a small brass disk called a "shoe" that prevents the screw

from

marring

the shaft. These fall out and can get lost if you are not

careful.

All that is left is the bushing and the cross feed screw and

they

slide

apart from this point.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!
- Blue Chips -
Webb

You did mention that you removed the set screw (more

correctly,

the

little

screw that covers an oil port). If you don't, you will damage

the

threads.

I think I can top all you guys on crosslide screw replacement. Some
time ago at a machineshop auction in a small farm town I saw a great
shape 13" SB QC lathe with a 7' bed. It had everything including a
lever actuated 5C collet closer. It had only a few bidders that
dropped out early , because it had a power turret and production
style crosslide. Needless to say I stole it. I knew I could replace
the crosslide with a standard SB one and get a standard SB tailstock
which with careful shopping I got at reasonable prices . The fly in
the ointment was the crosslide nut was shot and I did not buy the
pricy screw assy. Got ripped off by Babin scam on what I thought was
a bargin. ( moral, only buy from known ligit dealers)
I thought I could use the production crosslide screw assy but found
it hat a RH thread instead of a LH needed. Decided to fablicate the
whole assembly except for the large SB dial , crank and thrust
bearing I had, and a section of LH MSC acme screw stock.Machined the
CI housing to clone SB's. Attached the acme LH part to a newly
machined first part including cutting the gear section to drive the
power cross feed. Machined a new clone bronze nut threaded with a
comercial acme tap.
Bottom line is I have a very nice 13" SB at a total reasonable price
and can use the power turret and or crosslide if desired. It was
also a fun project.
Sign me crazy Walt West?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., Stan Stocker <skstocker@a...> wrote:

MSC has some acme threaded rod specified for 2 thou per foot.

Still not

perfect, probably fine for most cross slide or compound uses,

maybe OK

for a leadscrew, unless you use the lathe to make quite long

threaded

sections that require really tight specs.

Stan

brian_p_sherwood wrote:

.009/ft is their spec. Who sells ground leadscrew stock?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Yasmiin Davis" <yasmiin@g...> wrote:

Its really a matter of accuracy. The Mackmaster Carr stuff
isn't ground and accurate to tenths over a foot. There are
vendors that sell lead screws and I believe their price
would be around 300 but you would have to machine it to fit
your lathe.

Yasmiin

-----Original Message-----
From: brian_p_sherwood [mailto:lurch@m...]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 5:19 AM
To: southbendlathe@y...
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: disassembly complete

So now the only question remaining is whether I can replace
the
leadscrew and nut with OEM for less than $60...the cost of a
length of
precision lefty Acme rod and a nut from McMaster-Carr. I
figure I
could just bore the splined part of the old leadscrew to a
loose
press-fit on the Acme
rod...http://pages.cthome.net/errol.groff/
has an article on doing this because a leadscrew and nut
were quoted
from SBL at about $1200 he says...has anyone here on the
list tried
this?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...>
wrote:

Well, it's apart. The threaded bushing that screws into

the

cross-slide [which looks to be homemade, drunken threads,

tool marks

and all], the crank and the graduated collar are

salvagable although

I'll probably make new ones just because the rust pitting

that's
been

wire-brushed off is ugly.

However, I did find a part not listed anywhere in my book

[big

surprise--this assembly is full of them but I'm used to

that being

as my lathe is pre-fire]. It's a flanged bushing, 3/8 ID

x 1/2 OD
by

.885 overall length. The flange on the end is the same OD

as the

thrust bearing and it installs

flange-towards-thrust-bearing...or

should I say

flange-towards-where-the-bearing-should-be--I'm
assuming

there's supposed to be a thrust bearing at both ends of

the fat part

of the leadscrew.

The bushing [which also looks homemade] goes over the

leadscrew and

through the graduated collar. It was cross-pinned to the

leadscrew.

The leadscrew's trashed anyway...the threads are 1/2-10

Acme at each

end and 60-degree "V" in the middle with a sharp edge on

the "V".

My guess is at one time leadscrews were 3/8 OD on the

crank end and

later ones were 1/2 OD and this is a conversion kit from

small dials

or a Frankenstein setup with possibly a collar from some

other

size or brand [maybe a Heavy 10 collar?]--the number

stamping is a

different size and font than the other 3 SB collars I

have.

Oh well, at least the carriage casting is good, no

wasp-waisting on

the ways I can tell...and I got it for a price that I

don't mind too

much that the rest of the assembly's junk.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood"

<lurch@m...> wrote:

Thank you. I didn't miss anything a bath in penetrating

oil won't

cure I guess.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Webb Wyman" <lynnw@e...>

wrote:

Hi Lurch,

I didn't see any mention of removing the ball crank

handle. Or

are

you

trying to remove the cross feed screw as an assembly.

If you
are

trying to

remove it as an assembly, the bushing is right-hand

threaded
into

the

saddle casting.

The way I have removed them is to take the saddle,

with the
cross

feed

screw, off the lathe and clamp the bushing in a well

padded vise

with the

screw and saddle pointing straight up (I use lead but

leather

works

too) and

unscrew the saddle from the bushing.

Then the cross feed screw assembly can be disassembled

by

unscrewing

the

special nut on the end that retains the ball crank

handle. This

requires a

screwdriver like tool that has a notch cut in the

center to
clear

the

threaded hub of the cross feed screw. The ball crank

handle can

then be

removed by gently tapping it off. There is a 1/8"

diameter pin

used

as a

key to prevent the handle from slipping on the shaft.

This pin

may

fall out

as you remove the handle.

The graduated collar is removed next. Loosen the set

screw
(small

dial) or

the thumb screw (large dial) and slide the dial off.

Under the

screw, there

is a small brass disk called a "shoe" that prevents

the screw
from

marring

the shaft. These fall out and can get lost if you are

not

careful.

All that is left is the bushing and the cross feed

screw and
they

slide

apart from this point.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!
- Blue Chips -
Webb

You did mention that you removed the set screw (more

correctly,

the

little

screw that covers an oil port). If you don't, you

will damage
the

threads.

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brian_p_sherwood

could automate that process pretty easy; couple limit switches and a
couple latching relays...but isn't that what apprentices are for?
<chuckle>

--- In southbendlathe@y..., catboat15@a... wrote:

In a message dated 1/17/2002 5:50:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,

lurch@m...

writes:

Its really a matter of accuracy. The Mackmaster Carr stuff

isn't ground and accurate to tenths over a foot.

It is a boring job, but telescope makers lap screws to high accuracy

to

create mounts to follow the earth's rotation. Put some lapping

compound

between screw and nut and screw it back and forth many, many times.

Then lap

in a new nut to fit the improved screw.

brian_p_sherwood

recognize all the acronyms except "CI". define, please...

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "sbwest2002" <wwesthe@e...> wrote:

I think I can top all you guys on crosslide screw replacement. Some
time ago at a machineshop auction in a small farm town I saw a great
shape 13" SB QC lathe with a 7' bed. It had everything including a
lever actuated 5C collet closer. It had only a few bidders that
dropped out early , because it had a power turret and production
style crosslide. Needless to say I stole it. I knew I could replace
the crosslide with a standard SB one and get a standard SB tailstock
which with careful shopping I got at reasonable prices . The fly in
the ointment was the crosslide nut was shot and I did not buy the
pricy screw assy. Got ripped off by Babin scam on what I thought was
a bargin. ( moral, only buy from known ligit dealers)
I thought I could use the production crosslide screw assy but found
it hat a RH thread instead of a LH needed. Decided to fablicate the
whole assembly except for the large SB dial , crank and thrust
bearing I had, and a section of LH MSC acme screw stock.Machined the
CI housing to clone SB's. Attached the acme LH part to a newly
machined first part including cutting the gear section to drive the
power cross feed. Machined a new clone bronze nut threaded with a
comercial acme tap.
Bottom line is I have a very nice 13" SB at a total reasonable price
and can use the power turret and or crosslide if desired. It was
also a fun project.
Sign me crazy Walt West?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., Stan Stocker <skstocker@a...> wrote:

MSC has some acme threaded rod specified for 2 thou per foot.

Still not

perfect, probably fine for most cross slide or compound uses,

maybe OK

for a leadscrew, unless you use the lathe to make quite long

threaded

sections that require really tight specs.

Stan

brian_p_sherwood wrote:

.009/ft is their spec. Who sells ground leadscrew stock?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Yasmiin Davis" <yasmiin@g...>

wrote:

Its really a matter of accuracy. The Mackmaster Carr stuff
isn't ground and accurate to tenths over a foot. There are
vendors that sell lead screws and I believe their price
would be around 300 but you would have to machine it to fit
your lathe.

Yasmiin

-----Original Message-----
From: brian_p_sherwood [mailto:lurch@m...]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2002 5:19 AM
To: southbendlathe@y...
Subject: [southbendlathe] Re: disassembly complete

So now the only question remaining is whether I can replace
the
leadscrew and nut with OEM for less than $60...the cost of a
length of
precision lefty Acme rod and a nut from McMaster-Carr. I
figure I
could just bore the splined part of the old leadscrew to a
loose
press-fit on the Acme
rod...http://pages.cthome.net/errol.groff/
has an article on doing this because a leadscrew and nut
were quoted
from SBL at about $1200 he says...has anyone here on the
list tried
this?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood" <lurch@m...>
wrote:

Well, it's apart. The threaded bushing that screws into

the

cross-slide [which looks to be homemade, drunken threads,

tool marks

and all], the crank and the graduated collar are

salvagable although

I'll probably make new ones just because the rust pitting

that's
been

wire-brushed off is ugly.

However, I did find a part not listed anywhere in my book

[big

surprise--this assembly is full of them but I'm used to

that being

as my lathe is pre-fire]. It's a flanged bushing, 3/8 ID

x 1/2 OD
by

.885 overall length. The flange on the end is the same OD

as the

thrust bearing and it installs

flange-towards-thrust-bearing...or

should I say

flange-towards-where-the-bearing-should-be--I'm
assuming

there's supposed to be a thrust bearing at both ends of

the fat part

of the leadscrew.

The bushing [which also looks homemade] goes over the

leadscrew and

through the graduated collar. It was cross-pinned to the

leadscrew.

The leadscrew's trashed anyway...the threads are 1/2-10

Acme at each

end and 60-degree "V" in the middle with a sharp edge on

the "V".

My guess is at one time leadscrews were 3/8 OD on the

crank end and

later ones were 1/2 OD and this is a conversion kit from

small dials

or a Frankenstein setup with possibly a collar from some

other

size or brand [maybe a Heavy 10 collar?]--the number

stamping is a

different size and font than the other 3 SB collars I

have.

Oh well, at least the carriage casting is good, no

wasp-waisting on

the ways I can tell...and I got it for a price that I

don't mind too

much that the rest of the assembly's junk.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "brian_p_sherwood"

<lurch@m...> wrote:

Thank you. I didn't miss anything a bath in penetrating

oil won't

cure I guess.

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Webb Wyman" <lynnw@e...>

wrote:

Hi Lurch,

I didn't see any mention of removing the ball crank

handle. Or

are

you

trying to remove the cross feed screw as an assembly.

If you
are

trying to

remove it as an assembly, the bushing is right-hand

threaded
into

the

saddle casting.

The way I have removed them is to take the saddle,

with the
cross

feed

screw, off the lathe and clamp the bushing in a well

padded vise

with the

screw and saddle pointing straight up (I use lead but

leather

works

too) and

unscrew the saddle from the bushing.

Then the cross feed screw assembly can be disassembled

by

unscrewing

the

special nut on the end that retains the ball crank

handle. This

requires a

screwdriver like tool that has a notch cut in the

center to
clear

the

threaded hub of the cross feed screw. The ball crank

handle can

then be

removed by gently tapping it off. There is a 1/8"

diameter pin

used

as a

key to prevent the handle from slipping on the shaft.

This pin

may

fall out

as you remove the handle.

The graduated collar is removed next. Loosen the set

screw
(small

dial) or

the thumb screw (large dial) and slide the dial off.

Under the

screw, there

is a small brass disk called a "shoe" that prevents

the screw
from

marring

the shaft. These fall out and can get lost if you are

not

careful.

All that is left is the bushing and the cross feed

screw and
they

slide

apart from this point.

I hope this helps. Good Luck!
- Blue Chips -
Webb

You did mention that you removed the set screw (more

correctly,

the

little

screw that covers an oil port). If you don't, you

will damage
the

threads.

------------------------ Yahoo! Groups
Sponsor ---------------------~-->
Access Your PC from Anywhere
It's Easy. It's Fast. - Free Download
http://us.click.yahoo.com/yWCYWA/6XkDAA/ySSFAA/9rHolB/TM
------------------------------------------------------------
---------~->

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
southbendlathe-unsubscribe@e...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
southbendlathe-unsubscribe@e...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/